Block Four is the third on the top row. I skipped it the last time because looking at it is enough to give you headache.
But sewing it is not bad, IF you break it down to 4 square units.
To guide you through it, I have cut my pieces exactly as the pattern depicts. Later, when you scroll down you will see how I chose fabrics for my six quilts and change them I did, with varying degrees of success. Or failure, depends how you want to look at it.
I suggested you print out the Pattern Pieces and use them as templates. UPDATE _ however, I can't seem to scan these as a PDF without the scanning device changing the dimensions. This is significant as if they are not correct and accurate, your block will not work out. SO ... Please click on the image and use the layout you see to either cut the fabric or make a template from which you will cut your fabrics.
As you cut them out, be sure to mark the corresponding Letters. "F" and "C" are very similar and you don't want to get confused. Like I did. (twice)(grrr)
You see the whole block laid out in the correct positions. Now is the time to make any changes you think will improve you final block.
Here is the first square. I like to make one by itself to make sure the pieces all fit together as they should. This saves a lot of time if in fact a mistake as been made.
Place the Dark "E" on top of the "F" and the light "E" on top of the "D". Sew the lines and press to the dark side. NOW if you have chosen to change the color sequences, just remember to press accordingly. You want, when these pieces join together later, that the seams are going in the opposite direction. This minimizes the bulk.
Place the "C" on top of the "F-E" unit and the "B" on top of the "D-E" unit. It is critical that you carefully align the pieces as centered as possible and sew the lines. (please note there is a slim portion of the "F-E" unit visible... this is as it should be).
Fingerpress to the dark side..
Align these two pieces right-sides together using the 45 degree intersecting seams as your point of reference. This intersection should match perfectly.
Sew these units together. Your "point" should look like this: (don't cut the "ear" yet!)
Press the seams to minimize bulk and your unite should look like this:
Now lay this final unit on top the "A" piece and pin. I like sewing with this unit face up so I can "hit" that center intersection exactly as I sew the final seam.
Resist the urge to "square up" this unit.
Okay, if you are feeling pretty smug, go do the other 3 corners. If you had issues, either unsew all those seams and start over or do ONE corner again before you move on to doing all three simultaneously.
When you have 4 corners completed, it's time to assemble the block and here is where bias works in your favor. Place the upper right on top of the upper left and pin carefully, making certain the 1/4" seam meets perfectly at the center first and then to the top and the bottom of the sewline.
Please note that I placed a pin at the center and folded back the top and bottom corners so you can see the precision with which I pinned the layers.
You can gently pull the fabric to make them meet if they don't happen to hit it bang on, but obviously NOT if they are more than a smidge off. Bias can make you crazy but it can so be your friend.
As I sew these 4 units together, I press the seam allowance OPEN, like a butterfly's wings. At this point, there is no great way to minimize all that bulk so I press them open.
Yours should measure 16" square.
Take a look at the sample below and you will see that while the points are pretty darned good and perfect in some places, the outer joins are sometimes a tad skimpy. As long as I have at least 1/8" for a seam allowance along the perimeter, I call it good-to-go. If it is less, I pull the stitches out and figure out where I went wrong.
Here are the 6 for my Fabric Project:
So if you think you can take on this challenge, give me a day to figure out how to post the PDFs for the patterns you'll need.
Thank you for reading this far!